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CategoriesDesign Movements

Modern and Contemporary Fashion Design

Clothing, shoes and accessories from early 20th-century couture to today's designers, where cut, craft and image meet.

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No open-access works for Modern and Contemporary Fashion Design are in the index yet. They will appear here as more collections are indexed.

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Modern fashion took shape in the Paris couture houses of the early 20th century. Paul Poiret abandoned the corset for loose, high-waisted gowns before the First World War, and Gabrielle Chanel built a modern wardrobe from jersey, tweed and simple black. Elsa Schiaparelli worked with Salvador Dalí on the Lobster Dress (1937), and Christian Dior's New Look of 1947 restored full skirts and narrow waists after wartime rationing. Yves Saint Laurent printed Piet Mondrian's grids onto shift dresses in 1965 and adapted menswear for women with Le Smoking (1966).

Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto brought asymmetry and black to Paris in the early 1980s, and Alexander McQueen staged collections as dark theatre. Streetwear moved into luxury when Virgil Abloh became artistic director of menswear at Louis Vuitton in 2018. In any garment, look at the cut, fabric, seam finishes and how the shape sits on the body.

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