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Glamour

Cultivated allure in art, fashion and photography: gowns, stars, studio light and effortless-looking poise.

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Glamour is a cultivated, slightly unreal allure: evening gowns, sleek cars, studio lighting and a poise that hides the effort behind it. The word once meant a magic spell. Around 1900 Giovanni Boldini painted society women in whiplash strokes of silk, and John Singer Sargent's Madame X (1884) made a Paris beauty's pale skin and black gown the whole subject.

Couture and the camera made glamour modern. Paul Poiret's gowns appeared in Georges Lepape's stylised illustrations of 1911, and Tamara de Lempicka's Self-Portrait in the Green Bugatti (1929) casts the artist as a helmeted, gloved driver. George Hurrell's Hollywood portraits of the 1930s sculpted stars with hard light and deep shadow, and Richard Avedon's Dovima with Elephants (1955) set a Dior evening dress between chained circus animals. Larry Fink, by contrast, photographs society parties at close quarters, catching the awkward moments behind the poise.

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